Chanel revisits Deauville roots with cinematic aptitude at Paris Style Week
PARIS — In a cinematic homage blurring style and movie, Chanel transported its viewers at Paris Style Week to a fictional Deauville for its newest showcase. The black and white movie of the Normandy seaside city, starring Brad Pitt and front-row observer Penelope Cruz, evoked Chanel’s roots. Fusing the Nineteen Twenties heyday of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel with the drama of the ’70s, designer Virginie Viard recreated the founder’s gender-fluid wardrobe from the “winter sojourns by the ocean.” Deauville modified the course of Chanel and arguably the Paris style business.
Listed below are some highlights of fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear reveals:
Pitt and Cruz, depicted as lovers within the idyllic city, captivated friends who watched the romance unfold on large plasma screens, with scenes of seaside frolics and bonding over an order of medium-rare Chateaubriand steaks. Deauville, which influenced Viard’s fall aesthetic with its floppy seaside hats, performed a pivotal function in Chanel’s journey from licensed milliner to revolutionary designer.
“Deauville is the place every thing began for the home,” Viard mentioned. It’s the place Chanel drew inspiration from the world round her: the salty and striped uniforms of the fishermen, the velocity of horses on the racetrack, the stylish madames sunning on the sands.
“For this assortment, we recreated the Deauville boardwalk,” Viard mentioned, with chunky sailor sweaters, dressing gown-style belted coats and strong-shoulder peacoats. The colours evoked the hues of the city’s romantic skies with pinks, pale blue and oranges.
Regardless of the poetical musing and finely proportioned coats, the penchant for equipment generally distracted from the clothes and, at instances, muddied the readability of Viard’s imaginative and prescient. The setting evoked reminiscences of a previous spectacle by Karl Lagerfeld, her flamboyant predecessor, recognized for reworking the Grand Palais into an actual seaside with precise water. Some attendees felt the décor, and the garments, this time lacked vibrancy by comparability.
Miu Miu’s fall assortment took a playful jab on the transition from childhood to maturity. Miuccia Prada’s tongue-in-cheek little sister model as soon as once more addressed profound themes by the lens of frivolity.
Cropped sleeves, rounded-toe sneakers and pajamas with outerwear amid exaggeratedly shrunken proportions evoked the Tom Hanks film “Huge.” Maturity was seen as gloves and purses, brooches, tailoring. The human situation, the pioneering designer appeared to say, was generally a fusion of each.
Miu Miu’s creations persistently embody a youthful spirit, merging class with playful defiance. That is evident in surprising styling selections like pairing generally clashing traditional items with undergarments or athletic put on, difficult conventional style norms.
